mn pete 4th February 2012, 02:21 AM These box lids that I built last summer in Minnesota have cupped over the past couple months here in Denver.
Second Wind Workshop: Upended (http://secondwindworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/02/upended.html)
AlexS 4th February 2012, 10:22 AM Bummer. I was going to say they're probably backsawn & you should have used quartersawn, but I see that you have.
Possibly the thickness of the lids means that if they're closed while in Denver the moisture isn't equalising through the thickness quickly enough. If you leave the lids off they should come back.
As I'm going to make similar fitted lids soon, I'd be interested in hearing other ideas, and whether they come back.
jredburn 4th February 2012, 11:08 AM mn pete
As a suggestion only, try wetting the top of the lids and keep them wet for about an hour. Let them set overnight and they MIGHT straighten out.
It has worked for me.
Regards
Joe
mn pete 4th February 2012, 04:54 PM Thanks guys.
Alex, I've recieved that suggestion several times now, so I'll leave the lids off for a while and see if they don't recover. They were a snug slip-fit on the boxes, so it makes sense that the top of the lids would lose/gain moisture faster than the bottom.
Good idea Joe. I'll watch them for a while and if they don't start moving, I'll try wetting them a bit on the tops.
rustynail 4th February 2012, 11:06 PM It would be interesting to know what the moisture content was at the time of manufacture. Also there may have been tension issues with the timber. If there is an offcut from the lids has it performed in a similar manner? Another cause could be that the drop in section of the lid may be acting like a sump for moisture and the tight fit of the lid prevents moisture escape from the under side, while moisture can readily escape from the upper surface.
greek carpenter 5th February 2012, 04:34 AM ive always said that timber is like women can never trust them. i agree with rustynail its to do with the moisture levels i always measure my timber and have noticed that they are diffrent from place to place. what u can try is to wet it and clamp it down towards the oposite direction of the curve you would have to put a soft piece of wood in the center of your top so when you clamp it it sould not be straight but slightly curved and leave it clamped for at least 2 days.
michael
artme 5th February 2012, 07:55 AM Murphy's Law.
Had som problems with timber movement when I moved from a dry to adamper clime/
With you it's been the other way around..
All part of the fun and the learning curve.:)
mn pete 9th February 2012, 07:22 AM I'll need to invest in a moisture meter at some point.
What type do you guys recommend, pin or non-pin?
greek carpenter 9th February 2012, 09:35 AM 197797well the one i got is a pin, its got readings for both soft and hard wood made in uk cost me 160 eyros.:2tsup:
rustynail 9th February 2012, 10:58 PM One thing that has always amazed me is the number of woodworkers who dont have a moisture metre.
I have used both types over the years but now stick with a non invasive type. Needles are fine for rough timber but who wants pin holes in a piece of furniture. So much easier to run over the surface f a piece to check the overall reading.
Christos 10th February 2012, 06:41 PM I have the pin type that I purchased from ebay a little while ago. Only cost about $30.00ish???
Nothing to compare with so I have to trust it.
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