TSC-10HB versus Jet Supersaw

[Wolfs]

I would appreciate comments on my problem in choosing between a Carbatech 10 inch saw, the TSC-10HB and the Jet Supersaw, also 10 inch, with a sliding table added. I will buy an after-market mitre guage for the 10HB to improve cross cutting. I have come down to this choice based on reputation, cost and availability. The Jet saw will be about $400 more with the sliding table.

I am attracted by the sliding table but also like the stronger motor and (presumably) trunions and belt drive of the 10HB, particularly for Australian hardwoods. The JET has a 1.75 motor vs 3 hp for the Carbatech saw.

Has anyone had experience of using an aftermarket mitre guage like a Kreg or an Incra on the 10HB and also experience of the power of the JET and the accuracy of its mitre guage.

Any other comments would be welcome.

[dazzler]

Hey,

What are the prices on them. At a guess I would say;

Jet $2400

TSC10HB $1499

Contractors $1150

On those guessed prices the TSC wins IMO - nice power, good basic features, good feedback on forum.

Cant go wrong with TSC, but I would just looooooooooooove a supersaw!:D

dazzler

[Wolfs]

The Supersaw is $2,300 with a sliding table, and the TSC-10 is $1,875 ish with a good aftermarket mitre guage.

[Jock_Jock]

Hi,
I have the TSC10HB and am extremely pleased with it. I added an incra se 1000 mitre guage (about 220) off ebay and it is great. The accurracy, repeatability and ease of set up is great. I bought some incra track when building my router table and use the mitre guage on that as well.
I have just added my triton extension table as per sturdee's instructions. Now there isn't anything I cant imagine being able to do!!
I can't comment on the Jet but I'm sure they are great too. It depends on what's available where you live (as freight can be a killer - it added $110 to my saw straight up) I'm pretty sure you have to factor in the cost of a blade with the TSC10HB
I suppose for the TSC10HB it does add up - price plus blade plus gauge plus mobile base (plus possibly freight). For me it has been money well spent
Cheers
Jock

[Lignum]

Only those who have used both for a good period can answer this question. Ive never used a 10HB but have used the Jet every day for the last 10 months. Its a fantastic saw that oozes quality and with out the sliding table (a waste of space anyway) is around $1700. The only thing that is no good is the motor, it has about as much heart as the average collingwood footballer. Im in the process of swapping it for a 3hp, then the super saw will be just that. Super:D

[dazzler]

Only those who have used both for a good period can answer this question. Ive never used a 10HB but have used the Jet every day for the last 10 months. Its a fantastic saw that oozes quality and with out the sliding table (a waste of space anyway) is around $1700. The only thing that is no good is the motor, it has about as much heart as the average collingwood footballer. Im in the process of swapping it for a 3hp, then the super saw will be just that. Super:D

Then wouldnt the TSC be the answer?:confused:

More powerful and cheaper:D

[Scally]

hang out until Carbatec have their sale in May and you should save at least 10%.

That should help with the freight or a better blade.

Concern about the lower HP of the Jet was the clincher for me.

[Lignum]

Then wouldnt the TSC be the answer?:confused:

More powerful and cheaper:D

Not so. Price and HP alone shouldnt be what makes a good buy. Once youve established your going to buy in that price range a 100 here or their shouldnt come into it. Its what happens when you get it home in the shed and how all the functions and quality of build come together.

The Super Saw is so well made and the quality is sensational, and if jet put a 3hp into it the cost would start to go up into the next bracket. And its nothing to get a high quality Aussie 3HP and put it in your self down the track if you find it under powered. In the last 4 weeks ive ripped well inexcess of 3000 mt of tas oak and its not the Jets fault it struggles, but mine for expecting it to do something it wasnt made for. I bet the majority of super saw users wouldnt have an issue with the power. I have absoulutly NO hesitation recomending this saw. Its as good as youl get with a budget saw:)

[eddie the eagle]

Wolfs,

Maybe look to second hand - alot better quality machinery - if a new SCM MiniMax 4s(?) costs in the range of $4000, you'ld be looking at about $2k for a good machine.

Here's a couple of places to start.

I've used
Diverse machinery (Michael - 97553411/0414 239830) and found him to be excellent.

As well, here's some others from experience, marked with a (*) and equally good reputation

www.usedmachineryptyltd.com (*)
http://www.sawmillservices.com/equipment.htm - mainly larger end stuff, but worth an ask
the trading post (is the address www.tradingpost.com.au ?)
www.machineryhouse.com.au (*)
A-Class woodworkingmachinery - Stuart - 02.45773685 (*)

As always, the tradeoff against quality at the right price is waiting until a unit becomes available; and that people rarely sell excellent machines second-hand. (but, being trade background here, the machines you originally specified would be outdone by what's available second-hand)

Cheers,

eddie

edit: someone was looking for a SSB saw (vertical panel saw)
Here's one: http://www.sawmillservices.com/equipment.htm#Wallsaws

[inferno6688]

I have never used a Jet, but i have the 10HB. I am very happy with it. There are definitly no complaints from me! It is very solid and well built, and and easy to use. the motor has plenty of power. (have u got a 15amp power point?)

As others have said u can alwasy add a triton sliding table to it, if u really need one. Or even get the Carbatec sliding table they have for the 10HB.

Also if you need a router table the you can get a router wing for the 10HB so it can be used as a router table. very handy if u have limited space.

Overall i am very happy with the 10HB. I guess it comes down to the Motor size, and price, and also wehther u really want a sliding table.
Does the Jet come with a good mitre gauge, or will that need to be swapped for a incra as well? that might also need to be factored in. :)

[gpsmith]

I may be repeating myself - my reply seems to be lost - but I am happy with the supersaw having cut 40mm jarrah I have not experienced any hp problems.
regards,

[Harry72]

A good test would be to install a dado set and take a full width deep cut... see if it bogs down?
I know the tsc10hb can handle a 18x40mm(WxD) dado cut without bogging down in crapiarta.(at a fair feed rate too)

[dazzler]

And the TSC is BLUE:D

[Harry72]

NOOOOO ORANGE!

[MurrayD99]

I can't compare - I have the TSC-10HB and I have only seen pictures of the Jet. But my 2p worth is that I don't believe it is mandatory to replace the mitre gauge. I put a simple extension on it and it is OK. I'm not sure it is necessary to factor a $200+ upgrade into the price of the TSC.

[TassieKiwi]

My advice is that the JET '1.7hp" caters for the American market, where the hp must be stated to allow for loss of efficiency etc under load, like rating a car either at the flywheel, or on the dyno.
Apparently the motors have a similar output under load.

I was also told that the motors on the TSC's are not servicecable - if it breaks you need to buy another. Any comments?

[lyctus]

The TSC-10 is well powered and well made. A good table saw. I have used a dado set inthe saw and it romps home, no need to re-motor this table saw. I'd buy it against all market competitors.

[graemecarson]

I have the Jet Supersaw with the sliding table. I have nothing but admiration for it in both quality and ability. Nothing I have thrown at it in two years has been a problem or slowed it down. I have recently had to dispense with the sliding table to add my new Incra TS-LS with 8 foot rails. It was the saddest day and I am continually trying to figure out how to put it back but keep the Incra setup as well. One day...! The only word of caution I would have about the Jet supersaw is that most that are sold in Oz now are to the European CE standard. This means that you cannot run a stacked Dado set in them. If you want to use the dado set make sure you get the american version which has the split clear perspex blade guards - the euro one has an integrated red/orange guard and splitter combo with a dust extraction tube out the top (as well as a 4" one at the base of the cabinet). This is the reason I have buit a router table extension and the incra jig on to the end of my supersaw and use the 8 foot rails to service both.
I have seen the TSC at Carbatec and it looks a good saw but the quality of the Jet won me initially and the very accurate and useful sliding tablewas the decider. (I also paid a lot less than $2300 for mine).

Cheers,

[Lignum]

graemecarson:) In a previous post i pointed out you can use a dado on the Euro Jet. You need to get a spacer for the arbor and have your dado re-bored and that will cost around $100-120.

And id recomend nobody touch the American version as the rear guard splitter is attached inside where the riving knife is bolted and to trench/dado or use a cross cut sled the whole assembly has to be removed. A real pain in the you know what. And to clarify on what i said earlier about power, i cut over 3000mt of 50mm tas oak and it was only to the end when the blade lost its edge did it start to slow and warm up a bit. I dont usualy cut that volume in one go but it handled it well. The Jet is a beautifull saw to use. I love mine:D

[Nuggett]

I own the super saw and as others have stated - a very good saw. I paid about $1800 for mine. What I would like to know is: How easy is it to upgrade to a 3HP? Is it just a case of unbolting the old motor and re-bolting the bigger motor?Or do have to make adjustments to?? Also what the cost ??
The other question is how do you go about fitting a Dado Blade someone mention a spacer (sorry I can't remember names- I been married twenty years and still forget the wife first name! But the goods news is I go home to a new wife every night!!) Check out GPW.

Regards Nuggett:)

[gpsmith]

While talking about how happy we are (supersaw owners!) the only real change that I would like on my supersaw [besides a router table top extension - which is in the planning stages -] is a riving knife - instead of a splitter - If I'm going to dado or trench I think I would prefer to rout them. Does anybody know if there is a riving knife option for the supersaw?

[Chris Parks]

I am going to buy one of these saws and wonder if anyone here can help me with the most competitive retailers in Sydney. Is it viable to buy it from elsewhere (freight etc).

[Nuggett]

In reply to Mr Smith re riving knife -mine came with one so as another thread stated one is made for the EU whilst the other is made for the US market. I'm sure you can buy as an after market accessory.

Regards Nuggett:)

[Fossil]

You may want to have a look at this one too. http://www.majorwoodworking.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=226

I haven't seen one close up, but it looks ok in the picture.

[rrich]

I've looked at the web pages of both saws. I had a Jet Contractor model and now have a Delta Cabinet Saw.

The most important thing with any saw is the fence system. (I'm so much of an Incra bigot that I use the Incra TS-III positioner with my Biesemeyer fence on the Delta.) Regardless of which model that you choose, you should get the extended fence system. (51 inches or 1300 mm) When you're slicing up those sheet goods the 1300 mm fence is a Godsend.

The fence on the Carba-Tec looks very similar to the Biesemeyer fence except that it has (? Looking at a web picture) an aluminum face. You'll probably have to make a sacraficial face for the fence. (Not really a big deal.) Maybe it is a cross between a Uni-Fence and a Biesemeyer???

The Jet has the Xacta fence. A good fence but may require some set up. I have heard that the Xacta fence has wear points that will require maintenance.

The big huge difference between the two saws is that the Jet is what the wrong side of the planet calls a hybrid while the Carba-Tec is a cabinet saw. (Note the difference in the motor positions) A hybrid saw is usually a conrtactor saw's trunion and arbor installed in a cabinet configuration.

As an Incra bigot I'm also a right tilt bigot. The Carba-Tech appears to be right tilting while the Jet is left tilting. (Incra users understand the right tilt thing.)

The motor in the Jet is 1-3/4 HP and would run on a 15 amp breaker at 240 volts. (There is no flywheel vs dyno thing. It is a 1-3/4 HP motor.) If the saw were to be used on a 120 volt circuit a 30 amp breaker is required AND 10 gauge wiring. (NOT a common configuration here. Most circuits are 20 amp max and use 12 gauge wiring.) The Carba-Tec saw is a full 3 HP which requires at least a 20 amp breaker at your 240 volts. (For the same horse power, I installed 30 amp brakers and 10 gauge wires for the Delta saw.)

With all of that said, the Carba-Tec looks VERY similar to my Delta except for the blue paint. Even down to the fence rack on the left side of the cabinet.

Regarding safety features, except for the new Powermatic table saw, none of the saws here have riving knives. A riving knife moves with the blade both in height and angle. The typical "Splitter" on our saws must be removed for dado or bevel cuts. Most splitters provided by the saw manufacturer are never removed from their respective boxes. The same is true for blade guards.

There is an after market splitter made by Biesemeyer that is easily installed and can be removed/re-installed without tools or re-alignment. This splitter requires a 1/8" (3.175 mm) saw kerf. The splitter also has anti-kickback pawls. The cost is $140 US. I do not know if there is a model for the Carba-Tec. The splitter is so easy to use that it is place on my saw except for bevel and dado cuts. IMHO it would be worth forcing Carba-Tec to offer the product as an accessory.

If it were me, based upon only the pictures of the Carba-Tec, I would choose the Carba-Tech without any hesitation. While I'm not sure of the country of manufacturing for the Carba-Tec, you will be dealing with local people for service that have a vested interest in their product.

[Harry72]

rrich, 3hp runs on a 10amp circuit here(only just tho)best run on a 15amp circuit.
The tsc10hb carbatec/sherwood/hafco/general and many others(all the mayosan company just different colours/options)is a copy of the delta 10" cab saw, I think mayosan make some of delta's gear...

At the end of the day I think you'd be happy with either of the saw's, pick the best deal... or colour!

[gpsmith]

Thanks Nuggett,
I will look into it see if jet or anybody else can supply an after market riving knife.
Regards,

[chrisp]

Rich has provided a very good run down of the differences in cabinet- and hybrid-saws, but (call me pedantic:eek: ) I'd be careful equating a TSC-10HB to a copy of a Unisaw. I understand from reading Dean's reviews (http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/articles/TSC-10HB.htm) that the TSC-10HB has a insert plate that is the same (or similar) size to that of one of the Jet 10" saws. Maybe the TSC-10HB is a copy of a Jet rather than a Delta?

The Biesemeyer splitters (http://www.biesemeyer.com/safety/index.htm) that Rich refers to are excellent and extremely quick to install and remove - but quite expensive. I bought one for my Unisaw so that I don't have any excuses for not using a splitter. (The splitters supplied as standard are a pain to remove and install.) But, if you are intending to buy one for a TSC-10HB, be careful of which model you choose - there are quite a few variations in the mounting section. The model that fits the Unisaw may not be the one that fits the TSC-10HB!

Chris

[Lignum]

Regarding safety features, except for the new Powermatic table saw, none of the saws here have riving knives.

.

rrich, the Jet Euro has one:)

[Auld Bassoon]

rrich, the Jet Euro has one:)

G'day Lignum!

WRT the riving knife, do you remove it when you use a thin kerf blade? (assuming that you do).

On my TS the kerf for my common blades is 3.2mm which is ok as the R/knife is about 2.9mm. However, I also have a thin kerf blade which is, from memory, about 2.4mm

[Lignum]

Steve whats point whatever between mates:) Maybe im a bit unconventional but my riving knife stays put even if im using a thin kerf blade or my rip blade that is extra thick. It never realy seems to matter.

[rrich]

Lignum,
I think that the riving knife is a thing that ataches to a steel post sticking out the back of the saw. The one that came with my Jet contractor saw (Since sold) was so akward that I put it back in the box and never installed it.

The attached is a Biesemeyer splitter with anti-kickback pawls. It took about 15 minutes to install initially. For Dado and bevel cuts I just remove the throat plate, pull the release knob and lift out the splitter. To re-install the splitter, just push it into the slot and it snaps in place.

WOW! Saving a picture on this forum is quite a chore. At 100KB, there is NO overage allowed. Not even a single byte.

[Zed]

rrich your photo shows that a riving knife on your setup would be redundnat as your suva guard has one built in (the bladelooking thingy near the anti kick back plates.

Thank you all for this thread - very interesting.::)

[Lignum]

rrich, the one on the Jet Euro is excelent, as its attached to the back of the blade and rises and falls with it so it can be used with the c/cut sled and trenching etc:)

[Harry72]

chrisp, the splitter assembley from biesemeyer to fit a 10" delta fits the grizzly gs1023, which just happens to be a tsc10hbhttp://www.ubeaut.biz/approval.gif

[keith53]

I've had a Jet supersaw for a couple of months now and I'm very happy with it. Only problem is the riving knife/anti kickback assembly. Its too cumbersome by far so I've opted to remove it altogether. As with the WC it replaced, you need to be acutely aware of the 100mm no-finger zone around the blade. Good saw though. Dust collection is excellent.

[rrich]

rrich, the one on the Jet Euro is excelent, as its attached to the back of the blade and rises and falls with it so it can be used with the c/cut sled and trenching etc:)

Rhetorical question...

Why the F don't they sell it in the US?

There is a market. People would buy it. (ME for instance!) For lack of intelligence in marketing a saw was lost. Do that enough times and the company is lost.

[Chris Parks]

Seen This?

http://www.microjig.com/MJ_Splitter_Thin_Kerf.htm

[bsrlee]

So, from an Oz Jet buyer's P.o.V., the ideal thing to get would be the Euro/CE version, then retrofit a U.S. market arbour?

I have looked at some of the .pdf files on the Jet home page & there is no mention of the Euro parts in their literature.

[Lignum]

So, from an Oz Jet buyer's P.o.V., the ideal thing to get would be the Euro/CE version, then retrofit a U.S. market arbour?

I have looked at some of the .pdf files on the Jet home page & there is no mention of the Euro parts in their literature.


The arbor on the Euro is a heavy duty one that comes of the larger Jet cabinet saw. Its a quality unit and the American one sux. On the Euro it has the end ground for a spanner so you can change the blades very quick and easy. The American one dosnt and you have to jam a peice of wood in between the blade and the table to change the blade, its very, very frustrating. Ive spent time with both and the Euro is heaps better, just no comparison. If i had gotten the American one id be realy cheesed off. Even the dust extraction is a real shocker. It has tiny holes at the base of the cabinet and no dust gets through properly and you have to be carefull it dosnt fill and cover your motor. And the rediculous spliter realy takes the cake. Avoid that saw and get the Euro because you can get a modified dado for it anyway.

[FlyingDuck]

So if I purchase a Jet supersaw in Australia, do I have to tell them I want a European one instead of a USA one? The retaliers I have talked to don't seem to offer a choice, and I am assuming only the Eurpoean style is sold in Australia anyhow.

[Wongo]

Ducky, the euro one is the later model. Unless they still have the older models left you should be getting the euro version by default.:)

I love my supersaw. I modified the riving knife 6 months ago. I cut the bit that holds the overhead guard off. The knife is now just lower than the blade and they go up and down together. I never have to remove it for any operations. I made another overhead guard which is screwed to the ceiling.

Fantastic.:cool:

[FlyingDuck]

Wongo, is is correct that you can't attach Dado blades to the supersaw, because the arbor is not long enough? Also was told the arbor would be 30 mm diameter instead of 5/8" as in the USA catalogs.

The supersaws with enclosed cabinets will be available soon, and these will come with an XACTA II fence instead of the micro-glide fence on the hybrid style. Cost is about $350 more for these.

What about the Jet 10" cabinet saws which are called JTAS-10X... These are not supersaws, but seem a better saw, more heavy duty, 3 hp motor. XACTA II fency. Major woodworking has these (http://www.majorwoodworking.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=52_66&products_id=471), but don't know about the price as you gotta call them. I have asked retailers in Brisbane about these saws, but they don't import them. Anybody got one of these, and how does it compare to the supersaw?

[Wongo]

Wongo, is is correct that you can't attach Dado blades to the supersaw, because the arbor is not long enough? Also was told the arbor would be 30 mm diameter instead of 5/8" as in the USA catalogs.


Correct. It doesn't matter what you do the arbor is just to short to take the dado blades.

Buddy, the supersaw is great. Would love to have the XACTA II fence but it is still fantastic. Don't worry about the 1.75 hp, use a ripping blade and you can cut anything you want.

Cheers :)

[AndrewCM]

Wongo, is is correct that you can't attach Dado blades to the supersaw, because the arbor is not long enough? Also was told the arbor would be 30 mm diameter instead of 5/8" as in the USA catalogs.

The supersaws with enclosed cabinets will be available soon, and these will come with an XACTA II fence instead of the micro-glide fence on the hybrid style. Cost is about $350 more for these.

What about the Jet 10" cabinet saws which are called JTAS-10X... These are not supersaws, but seem a better saw, more heavy duty, 3 hp motor. XACTA II fency. Major woodworking has these (http://www.majorwoodworking.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=52_66&products_id=471), but don't know about the price as you gotta call them. I have asked retailers in Brisbane about these saws, but they don't import them. Anybody got one of these, and how does it compare to the supersaw?
I got a price of $2450 for the Jet JTAS-10X from Major Woodworking (inc GST but no blade) and $120 to ship to Victoria.
Before I place the order has anybody got any experience using one?
Are they worth the extra money?

Thanks

[Wongo]

Andrew, they had the new Powermatic table saw at the show. It is rated highly in a lot of US magazines. It is about the same price as the JET, worth asking about it.

http://www.woodezine.com/08_2005/0805_images/PM2000_Fence.jpg

[AndrewCM]

Thanks,
I rang them, they will still do the show price this week however they are asking $3300 plus delivery for the PM2000!!!!:eek:

Very nice saw but I'm not sure it's worth the extra $1000 over the Jet JTAS 10XL.

Major Woodworking have quoted me $2450 for the Jet JTAS with a 52" fence which seems reasonsble to me but I'm after some feedback from others who either own or have used one before I part with the cash.

Cheers

[Wongo]

Sorry mate, I thought it was $2???. I must upgrade my memory.:o

[bsrlee]

I played with the PM2000 and the Jet Supersaw at the WWW shop this weekend. The PM2000 is worth the extra dollars over the Jet cabinet saw.

At the moment I'm torn between the Jet Supersaw & the PM2000- if I get the SuperSaw I can afford a new Pedestal drill to replace the little Ryobi bench unit I have. If I get the PM2000 I don't need to get a set of wheels, and it will take a dado set.:confused: :confused: :confused:

[FlyingDuck]

Hey brslee, glad to see I am not the only one pondering this same decision. PM2000, JTAS10XL, Jet supersaw with enclosed stand, carbatec TSC-10HB, Jet JTAS-12, TS-12R...this is driving me bananas. I hate decisons.

[AndrewCM]

So, looks like I'm in the same situation as Flying Duck and Bsrlee!!!

Which saw to buy!

I torn between the PM2000 and the JTAS10XL with the 52" fench.

Flying Duck, have you got a price on the JTA-12 and who from??

To get the Major Woodworking Sydney show price I need to decide this week:confused:

Decissions Decissions

[Chris Parks]

To get the Major Woodworking Sydney show price I need to decide this week:confused:

Decissions Decissions

I was at Major Woodworking today trying to decide which table saw to buy and a "price for this week only" was not mentioned. They gave me the show brochure with no mention of a time period at all. I left more confused than ever, not being able to make up my mind. The supersaw with the sliding table is very nice, but with no provision at all for a dado set at all. The new JTXAS(??) has np sliding table and can use a dado set. Then they showed me another saw with the biggest 3HP motor on it you have ever seen which was not a Jet. I looked at modifying the cabinet saw to fit the sliding table and think it could be done if I was inclined. That would be the best of both worlds but it is getting a bit exy to do that, plus the work involved. I guess the dado use can be sustituted by a router so it is not a must have.

[Harry72]

Yes you can substitute dados with a router and it will do a neater job... but a dado set has less set up time and can be used in many ways, like cutting tennons in 2-4 passes(all sides)with very high accuracy.
Once you have a dado set you'll think how'd I do without it...

[Jack E]

I have never used a supersaw so I am purely telling you what I think of the TSC 10 HB.
It is brilliant, I love it and have never had a problem with it.

I have fitted a sliding table to the left of my saw. This meant moving the fence arms further to the right than normal but means my fence can now go further that way too! This was off my first saw so I can't give you a price.
I use the Incra Mitre 1000 SE and it is brilliant, I purchased it for somewhere around the $200 mark. (My first one had a problem with the extendable arm, so I was given another and allowed to keep the original, which is still excellent without the extension.
I also have two fully optioned grippers and the normal and thin kerf microjig splitters. This cures the riving knive problem and does away with the need for an over head guard. Cost about $250 I think.
I also have a tenon jig from Timbecon which cost $100.

So,
TSC10HB $1500
Incra 1000SE $200
Grippers and splitter $250
Tenoning jig $100

All up, for around $2000 you have a powerful saw, a quality mitre guage, a tenoning jig, the ability to cut dados and without the need for an overhead guard or riving knife
Plus for a little extra you can fit a sliding table.

But wait, there's more, check the router insert made by Silent C, it fits between the fence rails and will save some space in your workshop.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=10924
I have purchased the veritas parts required but have not fitted mine yet.

I have attached a pic of my set up, please forgive the slightly rusty table saw top, it has been a while.

Once again, nothing against the supersaw as I have not used one:)

Cheers, Jack

[eddie the eagle]

So, looks like I'm in the same situation as Flying Duck and Bsrlee!!!

Which saw to buy!

I torn between the PM2000 and the JTAS10XL with the 52" fench.

Flying Duck, have you got a price on the JTA-12 and who from??

To get the Major Woodworking Sydney show price I need to decide this week:confused:

Decissions Decissions

At this sort of price level, may I suggest a semi-Industrial saw in a similar (I believe) league wrt price.

THe MiniMax SC2W or SC4W are two light industrial quality saws that would be a far better proposition than a US Clone, and a damn sight safer to use.

http://www.gabbett.com/9772.htm

Try speaking to Gabbett machinery (where a technician setting up the saw is part of the price) and Hare and Forbes (where it arrives and you put it together and hope that you get it right.) Pricing is the same for both options, I use Gabbett - 9831.5044 (the number's etched in the grey matter here.)

Best regards, and please post if the price is similar or *way* out of the ballpark if you decide to make the enquiry,

eddie

edit: I think this is the thread where I posted a set of second-hand dealers' numbers as well a while ago - this is another viable proposition.

Henry Black (the 'Henry' of 'Henry's tool sale' that's on every August in Concord) has three quality British-made Wadkin saws up for sale at the moment that I forgot about originally - they are far superior quality to the Taiwanese stuff and are what cabinetmakers swear by for a stand alone cabinet saw/rip saw. You've got a range of configurations - either two wings or possibly an extension wing and a sliding table, all about $2k - $2.5K each, maybe $200- more for a single phase unit. I'd absolutely go this way instead of a new Taiwanese saw. If you're interested, phone 02.9744.7875 between 5 and 8pm.

Moderators: If this is out of the guidelines, please amend the post accordingly and let me know.

[jaspr]

I've been comparing tablesaws for a while now - and have been following the Jet supersaw/carbatec TSC10HB debate for some time.

One of the things I love about the wood shows is that you can go backwards and forwards from one model to another and compare them face to face. I did this with the supersaw and the TSC10HB.

But, having done it, I reckon this isn't comparing apples with apples. The are not comparables. The Jet saw that has the similar specs to the TSC10HB is the 3Hp model (forgot the number) and at nearly a $K more for the Jet, it's hard to go passed the TSC10HB.

Anyway, there's plenty of time to change my mind - again - as I won't be buying till later in the year ...

mmmm ... I really like the ones with the aluminium tubular fence rails ...

[bitingmidge]

But, having done it, I reckon this isn't comparing apples with apples. The are not comparables. The Jet saw that has the similar specs to the TSC10HB is the 3Hp model (forgot the number) and at nearly a $K more for the Jet, it's hard to go passed the TSC10HB.

Well no I think you are wrong.

I haven't taken a micrometer to either, but I'll bet the TSC10HB doesn't come within a whisker of the same machining tolerances, or finish all round.

If you were to bring one of Felder's products into the equation it'd be a few thousand more again, but again the level is up a further notch.

They ARE comparable, you just have to make up your mind whether the extra quality and accuracy are important to you, or whether you think brute horsepower will be all you need.

Having owned a saw which was a step down in quality from the TSC10HB, it was an easy choice for me to take a lesser horsepower unit with a much higher quality/accuracy component when I replaced it.

It's an interesting thing to me, that I can't recall one Jet owner providing anything but positive comment, nor complaining about the extra cost. I suspect that's because all feel they have received great value for the extra money they spent, or for the compromise they took in going down to a model they could afford.

It can't all be about marketing, can it?

Cheers,

P:D

[graemecarson]

You'l get there faster, enjoy it more and have a quality flight . I agree with biting Midge. I've got the Jet Supersaw and that's what I think - Super saw! Accurate, great finish, quality and power. You can have a 3hp motor but it doesn't necessarily pull like 3 horses. It's a bit like a 900 watt grinder - with an output of 570 watts. I went for the Supersaw after months of visiting Carbatec, Hare & Forbes and Gregory Machinery, week after week - comparing, checking and really checking things out. Sure - you can't use a dado set with it because its Euro CE spec'd. But surely that says something about safety too? Nah - on the basis of one saw - I filled the workshop with Jet gear and when you really start to use it you realise you did the right thing.

but thats only my opinion...and Biting Midges and ............

[boban]

mine as well.

Love my Jet gear and never ever regret forking out the little extra.

[Wongo]

But they all come from the same factory only with different paint. :D

A bit of a myth isn’t it? I bet you no one has ever seen a JET and a no name machine coming out of a same building.:rolleyes:

I am always willing to pay a bit more for my JET. :cool:

[Bodgy]

Wongo

Lets be a little more accurate please.

All power tools do not come from the same factory, but an awful lot of different brands of certain tools do.

Nobody would compare the Jet gear with the generic stuff (unless they join the others and start common sourcing and rebadging).

Next time you are at the WWW show, check out all the 13'' thicknessors. Blind Freddy can see they are identical.

Same goes for lots of other common tools.

But, not the Jet. Delta yes, but not Jet. Your shed can hold its head up.

[bitingmidge]

But they all come from the same factory only with different paint. :D

A bit of a myth isn’t it?

Well no, it's real! I was there last year remember? Sheesh you guys have short memories,

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=11178

Cheers,

P

[IanW]

Well no, it's real! I was there last year remember? Sheesh you guys have short memories,
P

Ain't Photoshop wonderful?!

ROFLMAO :D :D :D :D

[Lignum]

It's an interesting thing to me, that I can't recall one Jet owner providing anything but positive comment, nor complaining about the extra cost. I suspect that's because all feel they have received great value for the extra money they spent, or for the compromise they took in going down to a model they could afford.

It can't all be about marketing, can it?



Their is no perfect machine and the Jet dose have minor flaws. But 95% of the machine is superb and beautifully made. To many prospective buyers just think of Horsepower and the "extras" you can get in the price. But you dont get nothing for nothing. And what you get for the price of the Jet is excelent quality machining and construction, and in the guts the quality of the worm gearing, trunnion, arbor and pulley is superb. The machine runs soooo smooth and quiet. And no one has yet mentioned the left hand tilt, which apart from being safer than a right tilt, is just plain common sence. Its a bonus and i never use left side of the blade when ripping so i have mover the fence across and i can now rip to 1155mm. A bit down the track the additions of a three horse motor and Biesemeyer fence would put it into another category altogether. Then it would be one step sloser close to perfect for the serious amature or small professional shop. My recomendation would be to buy the Euro version, dont bother with the sliding carrage as its a waste of time and money and look to twelve months or so down the track and make the upgrades. You wont be dissapointed:)

[Fossil]

Sensible words above. :)

[silentC]

I can't recall one Jet owner providing anything but positive comment
I can't recall any TSC-10HB complaining, either!

... apart from being safer than a right tilt ...
How so?

[AndrewCM]

Thanks to everyone for their comments.

I've been busy ringing around and found another deal to through into the mix for all those interested!!!

Gary Pye Woodworking will do JET JTAS-12X50, 3hp saw complete the extension table & legs as per the JET web site

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/index.cfm?area=shop&action=detail&iid=12912

For..... $2800 inc GST

So, I could get a 12" JET with 50" rails and an extension table in which to mount a router, 3hp motor so plenty of power and capable of taking a dado blade

BUT....

Unless I'm missing something very obvious, apart from being able to take a 12" blade over a 10" I can't find anythng different between the JTAS-10XL and JTAS12X50 other than one tilts left and one tilts right and this then opens up a whole other topic for discussion:confused:

And there's me thinking spending money and finally buying a quality table saw for my new workshop would be easy!!!

[Wongo]

Left tilt vs right tilt.

Here we go again.:cool:

If you rip with a right tilt blade then you are trapping a piece of wood between the table top, blade and the fence. Not sure if it is significant enough to worry anyone but it is a difference from a left tilt blade. If I have a choose I will choice left tilt for sure.

[silentC]

I have a right tilt blade but strangely enough, that never happens to me. Maybe it's because my fence is very easy to move to the left side of the blade when doing bevel cuts.

[Wongo]

See silent your brain works better than mine. Being a right-hander I am not clever enough to push the wood against the fence properly using my left hand. It just doesn’t feel right.

[Wongo]

Although a bit of alcohol may help. :D

[silentC]

Then you would use a sled, which is probably the safest way of all.

[silentC]

Although a bit of alcohol may help
A bit? More like 6 pints!! That sorts the men from the boys ;)

I do not endorse the consumption of alcohol before using machinery of any kind.

[Wongo]

Then you would use a sled, which is probably the safest way of all.

Use a sled to rip? :eek:

[bitingmidge]

I can't recall any TSC-10HB complaining, either!


I can... about how they can't afford Jet stuff!

:D :D :D

Cheers,
P

[Lignum]

Their gotta be good, after all Paul McCartney wrote a song about them and the boys from St Beads named their band after them and Benny owned a shed full. Say no more:cool:

[silentC]

Use a sled to rip?
No, you silly Wongo. If you are ripping, then you must stop being a wuss and learn how to hold the board against the fence on the left of the blade. Something you would have learned had you stuck it out with your Triton ;)

[Wongo]

See Triton supporters can be so unreasonable sometimes. :D

I've got a bandsaw so why do I need a Triton? :D :D

[Slavo]

I've got a bandsaw so why do I need a Triton? :D :D
Is it the new triton Bandsaw?:rolleyes: