Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 54
-
16th March 2018, 06:45 PM #1Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Drilling a 13.5mm hole into end grain.
I currently have a jig set up using a mounted power drill with a 13.5mm
HSS twist drill bit. It's real grunt work with me pushing 75mm x 35mm
soft wood to drill a hole about 150mm deep along the grain.
I have tried a Daredevil speed bore spade bit but had to fight like hell to stop
it at a certain depth. A brilliant bit for drilling 'through' a timber piece
but not suitable for my application.
Is there a more suitable type or do all speed bore types just fight you
to keep going ?
Drill presses are no good because one with a suitable spindle travel
would break the bank.
Maybe I am getting older but 10 years ago I was using a cobalt bit
( golden coloured ) and it was knife through butter stuff.
-
16th March 2018 06:45 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
16th March 2018, 11:29 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge SA
- Posts
- 3,339
Hi, what's wrong with using an ordinary Drill Press, or are the pieces too long to fit under it??
If they'll fit, drill down as far as you can go, then put a packing block under it to lift it up, repeat till you've got your 150 mm deep hole.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
-
17th March 2018, 12:29 AM #3.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,829
Try drilling a 1/4" pilot hole first.
-
17th March 2018, 01:22 AM #4
Two methods:
First, use these drill bit collars: https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-dr...-pack_p6325040
Second, mount the bit in the drill. Measure how long it is. Drill through a regular bit of wood with that bit, say a bit of pine thats 12mm thick (or a thicker piece if you need a bigger spacer). Remount the bit and put the block over it, so it sticks out only the required depth. Use the block as your super-sized stop block.
Also, do as bob says, drill a pilot hole.
-
17th March 2018, 12:04 PM #5Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Thanks for the input good people.
This is to be a commercial process so first and foremost the process must be
economical with time.
Eventually two horizontal rams ( coming in from each end of a 300mm length of wood )
will be used but that's many $$$$'s away.
A drill press using 2 steps would eat up too much time.
Drill bit collars are a great idea for limiting depth as I don't think a slightly loose
collar ( in this case a 16mm collar on a 13.5mm bit ) will create too much of an eccentric wobble.
The process is similar to drilling a hole into end grain for a dowel.
My present method is fine as an interim measure but I need a drill bit that is better suited.
So, if you had to drill a 13.5mm diam hole into the end of a piece of stud timber to a depth
of 150mm, what type of drill bit would you opt for ?
I am considering a 13.5mm Brad Point because it doesn't appear to have the large drilling nose
of a Speed Bore. As they are recommended for dowel holes I don't think they will put up too much
of a fight when you limit the depth.
Has anyone had any experience with the Irwin Speedbor Auger or Suttons Auger ?
Irwin is a good throw away bit but Suttons are not throw away $60.00 just to gain a paper weight.
-
17th March 2018, 01:18 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Little River
- Age
- 78
- Posts
- 1,207
-
17th March 2018, 05:58 PM #7Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Not entirely sure how to convert a normal HHS bit into a brad point without
some fancy machining. Easier to buy one ready made ready made if I find
it may be suitable.
Not sure if any machine would do a 150mm hole without modification but
will investigate further. A friend once developed a horizontal drill with a
hydraulic ram but that was 20 years ago. He may have kept it as a memento
in a corner of his factory.
Thanks for all the input so far.
-
17th March 2018, 06:23 PM #8
Once you have gone in a reasonable distance (say 70-80mm) then you can take it out of the Drill Press and do the rest with a battery (or 240v) drill. With a little practice you should be able to get good holes I reckon.
The "gold" Cobalt you refer to sounds like a TiNi coated drill which is unlikely to be Cobalt (assuming that the coating is never breached, Cobalt would be a waste of inclusion in the HSS)
-
18th March 2018, 10:38 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,695
As this is a commercial process it needs some jigging so there is no doubt that it has been done correctly. I would fasten a drill to a base plate, then I would build a sliding carriage with suitable reference marks or maybe stops to limit it to the needed travel. The drill bit has to be inserted the same distance in the chuck each time it is removed so the references or stops are still the same. Put the timber in the jig and push it onto the drill bit, back to front to what is normally done but most probably the best way. The whole lot could be fastened to one base plate so all the relationships don't change.
CHRIS
-
18th March 2018, 11:50 AM #10.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,829
How long are the pieces of wood you are drilling the holes into?
-
18th March 2018, 12:45 PM #11Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
-
18th March 2018, 12:46 PM #12Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Hi Chris. That's exactly the set up I have been using without the fancy sliding carriage.
It's basically an open guide ( horiz and vert ). I apply hand pressure to the timber piece down and across
then push it onto the spinning bit.
I am after a knife through butter bit as an alternative the the HSS bit I am currently using.
It will be lovely to drop the 300mm section of wood into a contraption that will hold it in place
while two drills on rams come in from opposite ends.
For now it's me pushing wood onto a drill bit.
-
18th March 2018, 12:47 PM #13Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Hi BobL.
Each piece of wood is 300mm long
-
18th March 2018, 12:52 PM #14Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Hi FenceFurniture.
This could be achieved as you have suggested but 'time' is the killer here.
It needs to be done in one fast action.
It's like a paper clip in an office.
Starts of costing 5 cents but once it's handled at $20 per hour....
-
18th March 2018, 12:54 PM #15Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- GOSFORD NSW
- Posts
- 31
Hi Elanjacobs.
I thought a Brad bit had a 'screw' point. I couldn't see how this could be
created on a standard drill bit.
Similar Threads
-
center hole drilling jig
By hillpanther in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 11Last Post: 5th June 2012, 09:03 PM -
Drilling End Grain
By moh man in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 19Last Post: 25th December 2011, 11:11 AM -
core hole drilling
By AV Elec in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 2Last Post: 16th February 2009, 06:29 PM -
OF 1400 & Hole drilling set
By Dustie in forum FESTOOL FORUMReplies: 3Last Post: 26th February 2008, 03:21 PM -
Drilling large hole over small hole or vice-versa
By niki in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 28Last Post: 2nd November 2007, 08:32 PM