Thread: Rough turning green bowl blanks.

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And, I just realised who Willie Nelson here is. (When I was in a gallery in WA a month or two ago I was attracted to purchased and brought back as hand luggage a large turned bowl of a Wandoo burl he made. In his case what I liked most was what he left on the outside - the natural, grey weathered face. It had a nicely finished interior though.) Thank you Will Nelson, your Wandoo burl bowl now adorns my kitchen bench.

Euge [/QUOTE]

Hello Euge
Wow, thanks for that.
It is a small world. Which gallery was that?
Wandoo Burl, as I have posted elsewhere has to be the hardest timber I turn or carve, almost always comes with termites (who subsequently must be the toughest critters on earth, making a meal of Wandoo) and the sand they bring up.
The finish is a Danish Oil, should it be damaged or fade, another couple of coats will bring it like brand new
Sincerely
Willy
Jarrahland

I've only been turning for a couple of years now, and found that turning the green timber easier than dry.
I turn the walls down to about 6mm and let the bowls dry. The top edges warp a bit but there seems to be minimal cracking. The thin walls let the timber dry more evenly.
Here's a silver birch turned from green stock.

DSCF2894.JPG

Looks good Lance. I would not really want to be using a 6mm wall thickness on a large bowl though.

Originally Posted by artful bodger

Thinking a bowl corer/saver might be a worthwhile investment before doing the larger ones.

That batch of pre-turned blackwood blanks look very familiar... : ~}

And, yes, a corer will pay for itself over time if you are doing that number of blanks and selling your finished pieces.

Looking at your profiles I would suggest you go with the McNaughton corer. Not cheap and has a steeper learning curve than the other corers but more versatile in the range of profiles you can achieve. I went with the full set of available knives and have used all of them, however not all equally. If you were around the corner you could borrow mine to try out first, but Bass Strait is a bit of a snag there.

If you do get to core the blackwood I suggest you could go a bit thinner to get more pieces out of each block as it doesn't warp as much as many other woods.

Originally Posted by Willy Nelson

[.

And, I just realised who Willie Nelson here is. (When I was in a gallery in WA a month or two ago I was attracted to purchased, brought back as hand luggage, a large turned Wandoo burl bowl he made. In his case, what I liked most was what he left on the outside - the natural, grey weathered face, as it was. It had a nicely finished interior though.) Thank you Will Nelson, your Wandoo burl bowl now adorns my kitchen bench.

Euge

[/QUOTE]Hello Euge
Wow, thanks for that.
It is a small world. Which gallery was that?
Wandoo Burl, as I have posted elsewhere has to be the hardest timber I turn or carve, almost always comes with termites (who subsequently must be the toughest critters on earth, making a meal of Wandoo) and the sand they bring up.
The finish is a Danish Oil, should it be damaged or fade, another couple of coats will bring it like brand new
Sincerely
Willy
Jarrahland[/QUOTE]

Hi Will,

Gallery was large, near Pemberton (Mangemup?) don't recall name. Don't wish to ambush this thread any further as it focuss is on turning GREEN wood. But clearly that Wandoo burl was not green or dry and probably rock hard as you say. Galley gave me a brief CV on you but no contact details. At least now we have PM.

Good to make you your acquaintance.

Eugene